Woven Identities: Socioeconomic Change, Women’s Agency, and the Making of a Heritage Art in Jølster, Norway
Abstract
This article focuses on the recent history and contemporary practice of a kind of traditional tapestry weaving known as smettvev in the rural county of Jølster in mountainous western Norway. Jølster has a rich fibre arts tradition and a rapidly changing society and economy, which make it an exemplary study in material culture as its fibre arts transform to accommodate these changes. This article draws on ethnographic research and interviews with representative practitioners and community members to examine how conceptions about producer and audience identity and the role of this art form in everyday life have evolved in light of changing context. The article furthermore discusses the ways in which the forms and motifs associated with smettvev are being re-appropriated by local contemporary artists working in other mediums, as well as by individuals and institutions who see smettvev as a symbol of local identity and heritage.- Photo 2. Svanhild’s brureåkle, ca. 1940. Photo by the author.
- Photo 3. Jorunn Dvergsdal at her loom in the autumn of 2014. Photo by Hans Jørgen Øygard.
- Photo 4. A fantasiåkle by Svanhild Åhaug, circa 1960. Photo by the author.
- Photo 5. An empty farm near Vassenden i Jølster, bearing a sign reading “Every nation needs its own food – just not us.”
- Photo 6. Anne Lise Øvrebø’s “Åkle” line of jewelry, featuring a samrose motif. Photo by the author.
- Photo 7. Anne-Britt Lotsberg at her loom working on a commissioned smett tapestry with non- traditional heart motifs for an upcoming wedding. Photo by the author.
- Photo 8. Anne Britt Lotsberg’s pattern collection. Photo by the author.
- Photo 9. A runner by Anne-Britt Lotsberg featuring the traditional samrose pattern woven in a contemporary colour scheme. Photo by the author.
- Photo 10. Pottery by Kari Astrup Geelmuyden stamped with the klo pattern. Photo by the author.
- Figure 1.
- Photo 1. An åkle by Jorunn Dvergsdal, done with a pattern distinctive to her native village of Myklebust i Jølster. Photo by the author.
Keywords

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